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The acrylic panels are not quite stable, they tend to bend and warp.
The wood laths are pine wood or equivalent 5x30. This is a modest section, but the stiffness added is really significant and the machine is now completely stable.
You shall note something very important to avoid clearance problems, the 'knots' of the zip-tie shall be OUTSIDE. To clear the carriage, I added thick cardboard (~2mm) made of old calendar. You shall drill all the lath ensemble (the stack is only 30 mm) on a press drill, in order to have good accuracy. Dimensions are better taken from the DXF files than direct measurement. This reinforcment allow something important: a proper belt tensioning.
That aggravates the problem of stability experienced on the idler carriages. Being supported by the bolt head below the load point, the idler carriages tend to flip sideways and the belt rub on the idler carriage. Also, this side displacment tend to aggravate the bending moment and increase the flip. One forum member have installed 4 screws (see this topic, which is a clever solution, but I don't think he had given the stl file of the modified supports.
Find the STL file, and the somewhat barbarian Openscad module I write to build it (you may modify the scale to fit your own support) is below: //RepRapPro Fisher larger and higher idler carriage scale([1,1.07,1]) { // enlarged translate ([0,-8.5,0]) { import("1243-Idler.STL"); translate ([0,0,1.5]) // stack to increase height import("1243-Idler.STL"); } } translate ([0,-8.5,1.5]) // re-stack for good idler width import("1243-Idler.STL"); translate ([0,-8.5,0]) // re-stack for good nut width import("1243-Idler.STL"); //cube ([2,18.2,2]); // width check |